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Great trip !
Tuesday, February 13, 2018
Sunday, February 11, 2018
Things Australian.
Enjoying a glass of wine overlooking Coogee Beach (in Sydney), we looked back at what stood out (to us) as "different" or unexpected here down-under.
First language. Everyone is a "mate" and it is used in every conversation at some point. Even if it is just "Morning mate" or "Thank you mate". Have a question? "Can you help me with this mate?"
Then there is billie (the tea pot), a billabong ( a depression that fills with water - in a storm, next to a flooding river, or adjacent to the beach), and my favorite, a bogan (an uncouth or unsophisticated person regarded as being of low social status). And a twist on bogan, a cuby (sp?), a "cashed up bogan" or someone we might call nouveau riche with McMansion and many "toys".
The friendliness of everyone, the slow pace of life (especially as you are waiting for that morning coffee), and the feeling vastness with few people (outside of Melbourne and Sydney). We would often drive for miles without seeing anyone else. And on our walks on the Great Ocean Walk we might pass 3 people on a 3 k walk and see no one on a 1/2 mile long pristine beach.
There is no tipping. It is not even a line item on the credit card bill...and if you really want to leave a tip they will have to rerun the transaction.
Next driving. Driving on the left (steering wheel right front) is not as bad as it might seem, except for the passenger who is always reminding you that you are about to run off the road as they sit so close to the edge. Best strategy? Just tighten the seatbelt and pray. Driving was less of a challenge as Australian drivers all seem to be quite courteous, never in much of a hurry, and only rarely do you get tailgated or hear anyone beep. And you don't pass, you overtake.
I really liked their idea of speed bumps. Just set up a heads-on collision to remind people to slow down. Bet the lawyers would love it in the US.
Food was better than expected. The same choices you'd find in the US, except for Vegemite and beets. Beetroot showed up in everything, every salad, as a regular side dish, and as a choice in ravioli..
Last but not least are the animals. Swans are black, I never saw a white one. Cockatoos are everywhere. And you need to keep an eye out for that occasional emu.
Then there are the fuzzy ones. Kangaroos, Koalas, and the rare Quoll (a good scrabble word).
Tasmanian devils and wombats.
Eight of the 10 most poisonous snakes on earth are in Australia. We several tiger snakes and one "white lip" a small green one. But they are quite timid and disappeared into the brush as soon as they saw us, so no pictures.
We did see a ray in the water - it flashed its tail spine at us as it headed to deeper waters.
And last but not least, an Echidna - a marsupial ant eater. I liked it as much as the koalas.
First language. Everyone is a "mate" and it is used in every conversation at some point. Even if it is just "Morning mate" or "Thank you mate". Have a question? "Can you help me with this mate?"
Then there is billie (the tea pot), a billabong ( a depression that fills with water - in a storm, next to a flooding river, or adjacent to the beach), and my favorite, a bogan (an uncouth or unsophisticated person regarded as being of low social status). And a twist on bogan, a cuby (sp?), a "cashed up bogan" or someone we might call nouveau riche with McMansion and many "toys".
The friendliness of everyone, the slow pace of life (especially as you are waiting for that morning coffee), and the feeling vastness with few people (outside of Melbourne and Sydney). We would often drive for miles without seeing anyone else. And on our walks on the Great Ocean Walk we might pass 3 people on a 3 k walk and see no one on a 1/2 mile long pristine beach.
There is no tipping. It is not even a line item on the credit card bill...and if you really want to leave a tip they will have to rerun the transaction.
Next driving. Driving on the left (steering wheel right front) is not as bad as it might seem, except for the passenger who is always reminding you that you are about to run off the road as they sit so close to the edge. Best strategy? Just tighten the seatbelt and pray. Driving was less of a challenge as Australian drivers all seem to be quite courteous, never in much of a hurry, and only rarely do you get tailgated or hear anyone beep. And you don't pass, you overtake.
I really liked their idea of speed bumps. Just set up a heads-on collision to remind people to slow down. Bet the lawyers would love it in the US.
Food was better than expected. The same choices you'd find in the US, except for Vegemite and beets. Beetroot showed up in everything, every salad, as a regular side dish, and as a choice in ravioli..
Last but not least are the animals. Swans are black, I never saw a white one. Cockatoos are everywhere. And you need to keep an eye out for that occasional emu.
Then there are the fuzzy ones. Kangaroos, Koalas, and the rare Quoll (a good scrabble word).
Tasmanian devils and wombats.
Eight of the 10 most poisonous snakes on earth are in Australia. We several tiger snakes and one "white lip" a small green one. But they are quite timid and disappeared into the brush as soon as they saw us, so no pictures.
We did see a ray in the water - it flashed its tail spine at us as it headed to deeper waters.
And last but not least, an Echidna - a marsupial ant eater. I liked it as much as the koalas.
Saturday, February 10, 2018
Kayaking Bathurst Harbour
We are packing up. And Hobart is giving us a grand sendoff.
Yesterday we finished our trip with a 3 day kayak in SW Tasmania (Melaleuca and Bathurst Bay). It was actually just a one day paddle as the 1st and 3rd day involved the logistics of a short small plane flight and then a 5 km paddle to an established camp. It was a gravel landing strip but is an "official" airport with 3 or 4 flights a day carrying day-trippers as well as kayakers and trekkers.
It was cloudy on arrival day, but we woke up to what is probably the best weather you can have in that part of the country. The roaring 40's are the westerlies that blow (unimpeded across the southern Atlantic from Argentina and to Australia/Tasmania) almost daily and bring in regular rain.
This was from our beach looking north.
In the morning we paddled in windless conditions but then in the afternoon could just sit back and let the wind blow us back to camp (we used our paddles to add a bit of sail power).
On day 3, as we left, it was a driving rain from the north, and an exciting small plane flight back to Hobart. We really did get lucky on the weather.
I'll send a few selected pictures as I go through them. Now it is time for the 2 day trek home. Today we head to Sydney and tomorrow onward to Vancouver.
Yesterday we finished our trip with a 3 day kayak in SW Tasmania (Melaleuca and Bathurst Bay). It was actually just a one day paddle as the 1st and 3rd day involved the logistics of a short small plane flight and then a 5 km paddle to an established camp. It was a gravel landing strip but is an "official" airport with 3 or 4 flights a day carrying day-trippers as well as kayakers and trekkers.
It was cloudy on arrival day, but we woke up to what is probably the best weather you can have in that part of the country. The roaring 40's are the westerlies that blow (unimpeded across the southern Atlantic from Argentina and to Australia/Tasmania) almost daily and bring in regular rain.
This was from our beach looking north.
In the morning we paddled in windless conditions but then in the afternoon could just sit back and let the wind blow us back to camp (we used our paddles to add a bit of sail power).
On day 3, as we left, it was a driving rain from the north, and an exciting small plane flight back to Hobart. We really did get lucky on the weather.
I'll send a few selected pictures as I go through them. Now it is time for the 2 day trek home. Today we head to Sydney and tomorrow onward to Vancouver.
Saving the best for last - Wineglass Bay Sail
We are nearing the end of our trip down under. But if I had to pick, I think our last two adventures rank near the top of the list for our month of travel.
Today I'll tell you about the Wineglass Bay Sail offered by the Tasmanian Walking Company. And tomorrow I'll post pictures of our 3 days of kayaking in the SW corner of Tasmania.
The Tasmanian Walking Company was set up to offer walking tours but a few years ago they purchased a 75foot sailboat and initiated a sail and walk program. The boat has 4 cabins (8 people) and comes with a captain, first mate (his wife) and a guide. You eat and sleep on the boat (3 nights) but each day (for 4 days) put ashore for a 8 to 12 km walk.
The sunsets and sunrises were always a treat.
We noticed this bit of sea life (a ray) in the water just after we had waded ashore for one hike.
The beaches were as uncrowded as any I have ever seen. And warm enough that even I jumped in for a swim.
Our guide made sure we had warm water for tea at least twice a day on the walks.
One day we scrambled up this "hillock". About 600 feet but amazing views.
And were rewarded with a glass of champaign and hors d'oeuvres on our return.
And on our last day aboard, we each got a chance to take the helm as we sailed in 30 MPH winds.
What a great trip!
Today I'll tell you about the Wineglass Bay Sail offered by the Tasmanian Walking Company. And tomorrow I'll post pictures of our 3 days of kayaking in the SW corner of Tasmania.
The Tasmanian Walking Company was set up to offer walking tours but a few years ago they purchased a 75foot sailboat and initiated a sail and walk program. The boat has 4 cabins (8 people) and comes with a captain, first mate (his wife) and a guide. You eat and sleep on the boat (3 nights) but each day (for 4 days) put ashore for a 8 to 12 km walk.
The first day we were welcomed aboard by a pod of dolphins that swam under our boat as we departed.
The sunsets and sunrises were always a treat.
We noticed this bit of sea life (a ray) in the water just after we had waded ashore for one hike.
The beaches were as uncrowded as any I have ever seen. And warm enough that even I jumped in for a swim.
Our guide made sure we had warm water for tea at least twice a day on the walks.
One day we scrambled up this "hillock". About 600 feet but amazing views.
And were rewarded with a glass of champaign and hors d'oeuvres on our return.
And on our last day aboard, we each got a chance to take the helm as we sailed in 30 MPH winds.
What a great trip!
Wednesday, February 7, 2018
Hobart
My apologies for the late installment, but we have been off on a sail/walk for a few days with only limited cell coverage...more about that adventure in my next post.
Leaving Curringa farm we headed for Hobart. Only a couple hours a day and an easy drive. A few of the highlights of our visit:
1) A half day visit at MONA (the Museum of Old and New Art). The patron (owner) made his money using a gambling system (millions of dollars by counting cards) and as far as I could see has no art bonafides whatsoever, He just collects and displays what he likes.
MONA definitely some of the most unusual pieces I have ever seen. If you think Dali might have had mental issues, the art in one section of MONA which is the product of seers, psychics, and spiritualists makes him look tame in comparison. It defines the opposite end of the art spectrum from realism. But it gave me plenty of opportunities to think about how one defines "art".
2) We spent Saturday morning at the weekly Salamanca market (over 300 stalls).
3) We walked through through the founding neighborhood on battery point.
4) We saw the Mawson hut recreation. Mawson was an antarctic explorer who spent 2 years in a small hut with 18 other men collecting data on weather, magnetic fields, and the antarctic continent. He was a scientist, not a glory seeker. On his last outing before they were to leave, he lost his 2 companions and stumbled back to the hill just behind the hut just as the expedition supply ship was steaming away the season. Six men had volunteered to stay back and look for him and so the 7 of them got to spend a third year at the camp. It is the windiest place on earth (winds averaging 75 MPH) and once a gust of over 200 MPH was recorded. It makes one marvel at the drive of the men that undertook those expeditions.
5) And finally we visited the Tasmanian StateMuseum. There was a special exhibit on the Tasmanian Devil and a great collection of aboriginal art.
Next time, sailing and walking.
--------
Leaving Curringa farm we headed for Hobart. Only a couple hours a day and an easy drive. A few of the highlights of our visit:
1) A half day visit at MONA (the Museum of Old and New Art). The patron (owner) made his money using a gambling system (millions of dollars by counting cards) and as far as I could see has no art bonafides whatsoever, He just collects and displays what he likes.
MONA definitely some of the most unusual pieces I have ever seen. If you think Dali might have had mental issues, the art in one section of MONA which is the product of seers, psychics, and spiritualists makes him look tame in comparison. It defines the opposite end of the art spectrum from realism. But it gave me plenty of opportunities to think about how one defines "art".
2) We spent Saturday morning at the weekly Salamanca market (over 300 stalls).
3) We walked through through the founding neighborhood on battery point.
4) We saw the Mawson hut recreation. Mawson was an antarctic explorer who spent 2 years in a small hut with 18 other men collecting data on weather, magnetic fields, and the antarctic continent. He was a scientist, not a glory seeker. On his last outing before they were to leave, he lost his 2 companions and stumbled back to the hill just behind the hut just as the expedition supply ship was steaming away the season. Six men had volunteered to stay back and look for him and so the 7 of them got to spend a third year at the camp. It is the windiest place on earth (winds averaging 75 MPH) and once a gust of over 200 MPH was recorded. It makes one marvel at the drive of the men that undertook those expeditions.
5) And finally we visited the Tasmanian StateMuseum. There was a special exhibit on the Tasmanian Devil and a great collection of aboriginal art.
Next time, sailing and walking.
Friday, February 2, 2018
Mt. Field and Curringa Farms
The night before we left Lake St. Claire, we stayed up (actually I took a little nap first) to see the triple header lunar eclipse. It was:
It was warmer when we got up, but the weather was still unsettled. We said goodby to Lakew St. Claire and headed for our 3rd Tasmanian Park, and it's oldest. Mt Fields.
The weather was sunny and the driving easy. Once again we were amazed that we seemed to be the only ones on the road. It is amazing how little traffic we encountered since leaving Launceston. A nd on the A10 which is the only highway that goes from the west coast to Hobart.
As we approached Mt. Fields I saw the dreaded lenticular cloud over the mountain top. But ever hopeful we decided to head for our planned walk. It was in the tarn lake region, an ecology we hadn't seen yet. But the cloud refused to lift and we walked up into it.
After enough time to stretch our legs, we sat down next to the trail and had lunch. We then headed back to the car, with an occasional glimpse of the valley floor, but that was it as far as views for the day.
We were headed to Curringa Farms, a working sheep ranch that also has cabins that can accommodate up to 30 people. Believe it or not, these entrepreneurial ranchers have also developed a visitor center and offer tours! A tour of a sheep farm - not something that would sell in the US but the Chinese tourists seem to love it.
As an aside, we so far we have met only a single tourist from the US - a student on the trail to Mt. Rufus. Otherwise it seems that tourists are limited to a few europeans and a large number of asians - mostly Chinese.
I have to say that Kathy's choice for accommodations was amazing. We had a vast view from our porch as well as from the bed. It was a studio, but the most comfortable place we have stayed yet. I could easily spend 3 or 4 days just hanging out.
- A Blue Moon - the second full moon of the month
- A Super Moon - the moon was at its perigee (closest to the earth in its eliptical orbit and appearing 10 - 15% larger)
- A Blood Moon - with a lunar eclipse the sun's rays go through the earth's atmosphere before they illuminate the lunar surface and thus are orange in color.
It was warmer when we got up, but the weather was still unsettled. We said goodby to Lakew St. Claire and headed for our 3rd Tasmanian Park, and it's oldest. Mt Fields.
The weather was sunny and the driving easy. Once again we were amazed that we seemed to be the only ones on the road. It is amazing how little traffic we encountered since leaving Launceston. A nd on the A10 which is the only highway that goes from the west coast to Hobart.
As we approached Mt. Fields I saw the dreaded lenticular cloud over the mountain top. But ever hopeful we decided to head for our planned walk. It was in the tarn lake region, an ecology we hadn't seen yet. But the cloud refused to lift and we walked up into it.
After enough time to stretch our legs, we sat down next to the trail and had lunch. We then headed back to the car, with an occasional glimpse of the valley floor, but that was it as far as views for the day.
We were headed to Curringa Farms, a working sheep ranch that also has cabins that can accommodate up to 30 people. Believe it or not, these entrepreneurial ranchers have also developed a visitor center and offer tours! A tour of a sheep farm - not something that would sell in the US but the Chinese tourists seem to love it.
As an aside, we so far we have met only a single tourist from the US - a student on the trail to Mt. Rufus. Otherwise it seems that tourists are limited to a few europeans and a large number of asians - mostly Chinese.
I have to say that Kathy's choice for accommodations was amazing. We had a vast view from our porch as well as from the bed. It was a studio, but the most comfortable place we have stayed yet. I could easily spend 3 or 4 days just hanging out.
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